Monday, February 27, 2012

AN ECLECTIC EFFORT

Hussein Chalayan, Ambimorphous AW 2002



Fashion designer Hüseyin Çağlayan represents an environmental morphosis between “realism and surrealism, power and powerlessness” as he said * in his Autumn/Winter collection Ambimorphous in 2002.


At the beginning a woman who is dressed a traditional costume comes on stage. By other four women coming, black scraps enclose their dresses, finally transform a fully black dress. The first one represents reality, cultural origins, history, convention etc. It is an intact figure, not recreated. It is an approach that emerged by current circumstances however be seemed ancient. The last black one has conception of simplicity of modern age. Individually it has no cultural reference, but has a sense with the dress inside, metaphorically with it’s “cultural background” which is not perceived visually. The dresses in between which are combined traditional and black costumes, embody eclectic behaviour. It doesn’t completely belong to an age, has genres from different time periods. It cannot be conceived if that traditional or modern scraps enclose other, has a heterogenic mixture of genres, however, the dominant one can be only read during show and seen that tradition and personality is just ideal, covered by modernity. It leads that cultural reference just remains as an artificial figure. The eclectic combination of styles makes dress has no personality. As a result the last dress embodies modern man who is apparently simple but sophisticated inside, the first one is social sophistication itself and the dress in between is eclectic effort to assemble inner and external human behaviour which is also an obstacle for Hüseyin Çağlayan to find his own language on designing.



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